The Long March to Mahabalipuram

Some sympathetic Brahmins, also navigating the puddles (photo: AISC).

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As we marched single file down the East Coast Road in the rain at 4:15 am, the puddles were not the only things reflecting oncoming headlights. As the cars passed, and sprayed our ponchos, the eyes of Brahmin bulls glowed back in the darkness. They were watching us from their resting place on the asphalt, trying to figure out why a group of humans was trundling along in the darkness, let alone in the rain.

To actively promote wellness, the American International School of Chennai (AISC) participated this year in Stepathlon, a virtual race around the world based on steps that teams take for 100 days. We were team “Madras Masala,” and we needed to do something drastic in order to pull ahead in our school’s friendly step-counting competition. We also marched to raise funds for a staff member’s extended family, who lost their sole breadwinner when the father of four was hit by a speeding bus.

As we fought back the rain and self-doubt, we experienced the fascinating things that sunrise in south India has to offer. Our steps in tune to the first Call to Prayer, we watched India’s workday begin as the chai makers and shopkeepers opened up their stalls.

As we walked, women sold seafood in makeshift markets while children played cricket. Some people made their way to local wells, others tended fields. Some trekked to the numerous Hindu, Jain, Christian, and Muslim places of worship we passed.

We stopped briefly for a masala dosa, the culinary delight we had affectionately named our team after.

South India’s varied wildlife and livestock accompanied us en route. Blood-red butterflies, metallic-blue birds, and zebra-striped grasshoppers joined us alongside dragonflies, chickens, monkeys, iguanas, cows, and even dolphins. The rain stopped long enough for us to see a full rainbow.

Over 21 miles, and nine hours later, we reached our final destination: the Shore Temple, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Drenched and blistered, we savored this six-story, intricately carved granite temple overlooking the Bay of Bengal. We reflected on how lucky we are, and how often we take basic necessities for granted—even something as simple as staying dry.

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